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Countersunk the holes in the left fuel tank skin that attach the rear baffle. I’d much rather dimple than countersink, but the instructions say countersinking will make it easier to slide in the baffle during assembly.
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That’s the last step with the fuel tank clecoed together, so I took it all apart. I drilled the attach angle and tip reinforcements to the innermost and outermost ribs. I didn’t see a pattern for the rivets for the outermost ribs, so I used the same pattern as the innermost. Turns out the instructions later say to use just 4 or 5 rivets. Oh well. A couple extra won’t hurt.
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I started working on the capacitive senders by drilling the plates to the appropriate ribs and cutting notches in the outboard plate to clear the stiffeners. I think the notches are only needed on one of the plates.
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I deburred all of the left fuel tank ribs, the sender plates, and a few other doodads. You know you’ve deburred a lot when the cordless screwdriver battery gives out. That’s always a good sign to stop.