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Countersunk the holes on the reinforcement plates for the ailerons. Deburred the ends of the counterweights and countersunk the attach holes with a regular drill bit. The instructions go to great length to say the countersink can be 100 degrees instead of 120 degrees, but they don’t say what difference it makes. The Orndorff video suggests not to use countersink cutters as they will get chewed up by the steel. Instead, a regular old drill bit is good enough. It doesn’t make a pretty countersink, but it works fine.
I then did the trick of putting the counterweight plus nose skin on a couple of 2×4’s and whacked a dimple die into the skin. Works pretty good.
imag3446
The CS4-4 rivets aren’t going to set perfectly flush anyway, because the skin bends right there. I also dimpled all of the other holes on the spars and skins. For being so small, the ailerons have a lot of holes. I think I’m ready for primer.
The counterweights are each just a tiny bit longer than the nose skin. It’s only about 1/32″ on each side. I’m not sure if that is important or not.
I noticed on somebody’s web site that they had polished the outside of the counterweight. I don’t think that’s a good idea. A galvanized pipe is fairly rustproof, because of the galvanization. It’s a thin layer of I think zinc. If you sand that off, it’s not going to be very resistant to corrosion.
It has been blazin’ hot here lately, mid to upper 90’s. It just doesn’t normally get that hot here in Seattle. The shop was toasty:
