Dave’s RV-7A Building Log

Took last night off for a meeting with the group of folks getting a new EAA chapter started on the Seattle Eastside. The meeting went great. We split up the tasks, which should make it easy to get it all done. I think we’re going to have a good group.

Tonight I worked on fitting the left front baffle floor. Following René’s advice, I flattened the diagonal bend a bit and increased the bend at the back of the floor. Once I trim back the cowl inlet, I think it’s going to work out just right.

It’s a little difficult to determine where the floor is supposed to be relative to the cylinder it attaches to. There are no pre-drilled holes and there’s no drawing that shows the right angle. Following the casting marks on the cylinder leads right to a little fin on that crankcase, so that’s the position I’m using. I trimmed the inside and outside of the floor a bit to get it fitting well. For now, I have the left side baffle pointing outward. I’m not sure if that’s necessary in order to get enough room for the filter or not. Doesn’t hurt to start out that way. I roughly positioned the front left bulkhead a few times just to make sure it was going to fit OK with the floor angle. Looks fine.

I also fabricated the angle 2R that stiffens the back of the left floor and holds it to the front of the cylinder. That gets riveted to the floor with the part 14 support that attaches to the crankcase. I have it all pictured in my mind how it goes together now. Some spatial ability is definitely required for these baffles due to the lack of good drawings.

Earlier in the week, the spring arrived that ordered from McMaster-Carr. Unfortunately, it doesn’t have enough torque to make the oil door stay open. Not sure if I’ll try to order a different one, or just live with it. I also received the Hartwell latches from Wicks. They look great, but the two don’t match. On one the latch part sticks up more than the other. On the back one has “-.025″ imprinted on it and the other says “-.115″. That appears to be how much they stick up from the attachment plate. I called Wicks and they’re sending out another matched pair this time for free, and they’ll reimburse me for sending back this pair.

I did a bit more fitting and tweaking on the rear bulkheads. I’m pretty confident I know how they’re supposed to go together now. I was going to drill some holes, but it seems like the hole layout is dependent on the eventual height of the baffles. I won’t know the height until I trim the baffles to fit under the top cowl. I’m getting caught in a catch-22, and might have to just forge forward.

I moved on to the front floors. I installed the lower cowl to see where the floors needed to be. I trimmed the front of the left floor just a little bit, so that it would fit under the cowl inlet. I’ve read in a few places now that I don’t want to trim the front floor too much.

The floors need a fairly severe angle in them. The drawings indicate two bend lines, one parallel to and just and of the cylinders. The other bend line is sort of diagonal across the floor. I started with a slight bend at the parallel line and a more sharp bend along the diagonal. That was obviously not going to work well. First, the front of the floor is at too much of an angle relative to the cowl inlet. And secondly, the filter for the engine intake needs to fit in the floor. That’s going to be much more difficult with a diagonal bend going through it.

After quite a bit of messing around, I was getting more and more confused. Time to hit the web building logs. It turns out, not many builders go for the 180hp, horizontal/forward induction engine. At least I couldn’t find many. Walter has this set up, but made a custom intake plenum. I want to use the standard one. Pete James sent me some pictures a while back, but it looks like he had to do some customization of the plenum because he cut too much off the side of the left floor. I finally looked at René Bubberman and friends’ site. He’s got some good pictures and tips on there. He basically trimmed the cowl inlet way back, enough so that the filter has room on the flat part of the left floor. I also emailed him and he sent me some more tips that I’ll walk through in my log as I work on that part.

There have been many tricky parts in building this plane, but so far this is the worst documented area. I’m using an engine that is a clone of one (IO360-M1B) that Van’s fully supports. However, the instructions leave out so many details that you’ll end up ordering new parts (as René had to) if you follow them.

The main thing I did was to make a spacer for the rear left inner bulkhead. The plans say to make a finger spacer or use washers. The problem is that the bulkhead is at an angle relative to the attachment point on the engine. I tried using a flat spacer, but that tweaks the bulkhead quite a bit pushing it against the top left engine mount. Instead I made a spacer out of some .125 stock and filed it down until it angled down to .080 on the lower side. I ended up using an additional .040 spacer with it. It took a while to make, but should work pretty well.

I trimmed the front of the side baffles just enough to get the bottom cowl on. They’ll need more trimming later, but I just want to do some rough fitting at this point. I also started figuring out all of the various angles and brackets that hold the front floors in place. I deburred the right front floor, which took quite a while with all of the corners and relief notches. I measured and rough cut a slot in the front right floor for the prop oil line. I’m trying to make it so the bracket will cover the slot once installed.

I’m starting to get the feeling that these baffles are going to take a long time.

Today was the exact weather opposite of yesterday’s crazy rain and wind storm. It was very sunny and warm. We took the dog for a super long walk. And washed both cars. And watched part of the Super Bowl. Not much time for building.

I did talk Julie into helping me with some of the rear top skin riveting. I’m done with the wiring in the far back, so I decided to go ahead and close it up. I crawled back there on some boards, and she riveted from the outside. It’s definitely uncomfortable, but we did some great riveting. Just one more session to finish it off.

I decided to create a new category. I still have some major components to work on like the baffling, cowl, wiring, but there are also a ton of little finish-up items all over the plane. For the ones that don’t really fit in one of the other categories, I’m going to put them in this “Endgame” category. I’m not implying that I’m almost done. These are just the miscellanous finishing up tasks.

I spent a lot of time today fitting the rear bulkheads of the baffles. I finally got smart today and pulled out the Dremel with a rotary cutter bit and went to town. Filing is for the finishing touches.

There is quite a bit of trimming necessary on the right rear and left inner rear bulkheads. This was the trouble spot on the right side, right around the engine mount bolt.

This shows a little tab on the bottom of the right rear bulkhead. It’s not mentioned anywhere in the plans, but I noticed a little notch while I was deburring that usually indicates a bend line. Sure enough, bending the tab a little bit makes it fit better around the base of the cylinder.

Don’t do this! I saw this little modification on another builder’s site. I thought I needed the same thing. Later in the day I realized that by moving the hose clamp on the line behind the flange, the whole thing moves back and up out of the way. I didn’t need to make the notch, but it’s not going to hurt anything.

At this point the sides and rear bulkheads are fitting really well and are all deburred. That may not sound like much, but it took a lot of time.

For a short diversion during the day, I drilled the oil door hinge I made the other day to the cowl and door. Turned out quite excellent. Now I just need the Hartwell latches and a spring from McMaster for the hinge.

I worked a bit more on the baffling. I fitted the rear bracket to the back of the engine. It took quite a bit of tweaking to get it to fit. I guess every engine is cast a little differently. It sits a way back from where I think the back bulkheads will end up. I might have to bend it a bit more.

I also deburred the side baffles and drilled some of the bolt reinforcements.

I officially started working on the baffling. I basically just did a test fit of the sides and back. The sides fit really well. The back left fit OK, and the back right required some major filing. I guess every engine is slightly different. On mine the baffle hung up right around the top right engine mount nut. I also messed with the front floors a bit. The prop oil line is in the way of the right floor. The instructions says to remove it temporarily. That won’t help me, though. My line is a rigid aluminum line. It won’t move very much. I remember seeing someone else cut a slot in the floor and then make a filler plate behind it. I also tried to picture how the engine air intake snorkel fits with the left floor. I’ve been warned by other builders that the snorkel will need some surgery in order to fit. So far, I can’t figure out how it’s going to work.

I decided to get the camlocs through the Milspec group buy. I personally don’t like the looks of the camlocs, but they’ll be much easier for installing and removing the cowl. I bought the firewall only kit with the straight slots. The hinge works great on the horizontal seam. I’ll have to drill out the rivets I set for the hinges and put in attachment strips. That’s not a big deal since I messed up the side hinges anyway. I’ll also fill the rivet holes I drilled in the cowl, which will be easy. From what I’ve read, I’ll want to reinforce the cowl along the edge anyway to prevent puckering between the camlocs.

I went on to something different while I wait for the camlocs to arrive. I fabricated a concealed oil door hinge. I thought it might be a little tricky, but it was trivial. It took less than an hour. I’ll write up some details with pictures when it’s all done. So far I bent a piece of .032 sheet into just the right shape and riveted it to a short chunk of left over hinge material. I also ordered a torsion spring from McMaster-Carr. They have about a thousand springs to choose from, but I think I found one that will work well for holding the oil door open.