Dave’s RV-7A Building Log

The first task of the day was to figure out how high on the panel the audio panel could be placed. I made a template showing the depth of each avionics box. The left edge represents the panel, and the jagged right edge is the back of each component.

I then backed the plane into the driveway, opened the canopy, and hopped in. Well, it wasn’t exactly that easy. I decided to cleco the forward skin back in place in order to make sure everything was lined up correctly. I installed some of the clecos from underneath (not an easy task) to avoid interference with the canopy. The canopy and forward skins are really battling each other. I had to use putty knives to pry the skins apart while Julie slowly lifted the canopy. I have some bending/beveling to do on those skins.

Once inside with the canopy closed, I determined that the audio panel needs to be at least 1.5″ from the top of the panel. Otherwise the rear of the PMA8000B will hit the tip-up canopy reinforcement. I’ll have to ask Ross to move the avionics stack down a tiny bit. I had to crawl out via the baggage comparment due to the canopy opening issues. The plane looks great with the prop installed, though.

The next step in getting the spinner fitted is to make a template for the cutout for the prop blades. I used a piece of cardboard, trimming it until there was just a tiny bit of clearance. I then muscled the prop to coarse pitch with a strap wrench while Julie marked the enlarged cutout on the cardboard.

I then traced this carefully onto the spinner exactly 180 degrees apart. I’m hoping to save the fiberglass cutout in order to use it for the filler plate.

Today was broken into so many small work sessions that it’s hard to say how long I worked on it. Felt like all day, but was probably around 2 hours.

I worked on the rear bulkhead for the spinner. This part is one of the most frustrating I’ve run across yet. The whole part is pre-punched except for the middle that has to be cut out. They probably didn’t cut it out to avoid stocking two parts for fixed-pitch and constant-speed props. That would fit in the penny-wise/pound-foolish category. I would have happily paid an extra $20 to avoid this stupid task. I used a hole saw, a jig saw, a Dremel cutter, a Dremel sanding drum, a vixen file, and various sand paper to get this done. I nearly ruined the whole part at one point when the jig saw grabbed the part.

I primed the bulkhead and reinforcement ring, riveted them together, and installed it on the back of the prop hub.

“Honey, would you mind helping me for a ‘minute?’” The prop isn’t super heavy, but it’s certainly awkward. And you have to hold pressure off of the bolts in order for them to turn easily.

It takes a long time to get the bolts threaded into the crank flange. I did a couple twists on each bolt in succession going around and around and around.

Eventually, it snugged up very nicely. I don’t have the extension needed to properly torque the bolts. I’ll leave that for later.

It sure looks sweet with the prop on.

The prop arrived via FedEx Freight.

I unpacked it and started getting it ready for mounting. I read the included manual cover to cover.

I also got a hold of Ross and had him make the changes I requested and return the drawing file. It’s getting close at this point. I’ve got a few minor tweaks, but the only major thing I’m worried about is possible interference between the audio panel and the tip-up canopy reinforcement.

I cleaned up the cabin frame in preparation for painting. While that was drying I installed the custom heat muff that Rick Robbins made for me with the inlet and outlet 60 degrees apart. He turned around my order really quickly and it turned out perfectly. Thanks Rick!

The fit is great. The angle between the inlet and oulet provided the best path for the SCAT tubing. It’s a little tight running the SCAT tubing inside the intake tubes, but there’s enough room. I’ll clamp it in a few spots to keep it from rubbing on anything. Getting the SCAT tubing over the flanges is not fun. Hopefully this is it. These shots are oblique from the front, front shot, and side shot.

The nice part about our recent warm weather is that stuff drys fast. I was able to prime the cabin frame in the same night. Not only that, but I sanded out a few parts, blew off the dust, and did the final coat. The filler isn’t perfect, but it looks much better than without.

Productive night. I wish they could all be that way.

I sanded down the second round of filler on the cabin frame, and it’s looking good. Time for paint.

I sanded down the filler on the cabin frame. There was quite a bit of shrinkage, so I did another round of filling. I think it’ll turn out pretty nice.

I ordered custom throttle/mixture/prop cables from Spruce which should arrive in 4 weeks. I purchased a few other odds and ends from Vans and Spruce as well.

I sanded the filler on the fairing and shot another coat of primer on it. It turned out much better this time. It’s good enough for now. I’ll do more prep work on it later, maybe even wait until I get it painted. It’s certainly flyable right now.

I decided to fit the canopy latch fingers onto the canopy. I wheeled the plane out into the driveway and Julie helped me get the canopy on. It’s tough to get the pins lined up. Initially I tried to keep the forward top skin on, but without being able to cleco it down it was obvious there would be binding. I just took it off.

I attached the gas struts and watched the canopy lift on it own for the first time. Very cool.

After some fiddling around, it became apparent that the holes in the canopy deck were not big enough. I used the cutter in the Dremel to extend them forward. Even then if the canopy doesn’t come straight down, it will bind up on one side or the other. I might need some spacers under the fingers.

I placed 1/8″ spacers under the canopy rails and removed the cabin frame. From there I positioned the fingers, marked them, and drilled them on the drill press. The left one got way off center. I thought it was going to be fine, until I realized these are attached with bolts, not rivets. Time to order a new one.

One thing I noticed is that with the gas struts pushing the canopy upward, there’s a sizeable gap under the front of the canopy. Hopefully once the forward top skin is on, this will be reduced.

(Edit 5/15/2006: After sleeping on it, I figured out the issue. Without the forward top skin in place, the whole subpanel assembly has shifted forward. That explains why the latch fingers aren’t fitting through the holes in the canopy deck and why there is such a big gap under just the forward part of the canopy.)

I was hoping to take the canopy right back off again and store it until final assembly, but now I need to order a new latch finger and wait for it to arrive so I can mark and drill it correctly.

After dinner, I did some prepping and filling on the cabin frame. I decided to use some filler since the gap between the two halves is so wavy.

I wasn’t sure I was going to do anything on the plane today, but Adele was busy playing with her friend and Julie was happy working in the yard. Sounds like a great Mother’s Day to me.

I painted the F-704 covers and upper baggage bulkhead. They turned out great.

I then turned to sanding and filling the canopy fairing. Pretty boring, so I didn’t snap any pictures.

I did have a little fun today. I rented a 172 and did some touch and goes at Boeing Field. Even though the wind was right down the runway, with all the hills and building around BFI there was a lot of mechanical turbulence in the air. Very bumpy and swirly. I did 4 T&Gs and was proud of all but one. Not bad. Still knocking the rust off.

The weather outlook was great, so I prepped the F-704 covers and the upper baggage bulkhead for painting.

Busy night away from the plane tonight. There was an event at Adele’s school and a public hearing about the city leash laws. Both important to attend.

I did spend a little time drilling the F-704 covers for cabin lights. Easy stuff. The covers are now ready for paint and installation.

The angled sniffle valve from Mattituck arrived. It’s a Piper part. It looks like it’ll work great, but I can’t use the standard Vans setup. The outlet of this fitting is 1/4″ rather than 3/8″. I already found some hose I can order to connect the valve to a length of 1/4″ aluminum line. Just one more bump in the road.

I got some good news from Spruce today. They checked with their vendor for the custom length quadrant cables and the diameter is 1/4″. That will fit perfectly in the firewall eyeball fittings. I’ll order those cables soon.